paprika

CHICKEN PAPRIKASH

Go big or go home is my motto when it comes to flavour. There are far too many times in our lives when we must practice restraint so wouldn’t it be reasonable for us to acquire a few outlets for unrestrained excess? Personally, I think making food with huge flavour is the perfect outlet, and what better blank canvas to unleash big fervent flavours than on the humble chicken? Don’t get me wrong, I love a simple unadorned chicken, the better the quality of the bird the better its flavour. However, I’ve got some paprika–laced Hungarian blood running through my veins and I must now and then satisfy my hunger for deep intense flavours.

Chicken Paprikash is a staple Hungarian dish whereby chicken is stewed in a rich and creamy paprika gravy. But don’t let it intimidate you, because unlike the Hungarian language (I speak from experience), this is an approachable and easy dish in every respect.  So next time you are in a bind about making something different with your chicken, try this tantalizing dish.

CHICKEN PAPRIKASH

INGREDIENTS:

Makes 4 servings

1 Tbs. vegetable oil (I prefer using duck or goose fat here, why restrain yourself now?)

8 chicken thighs or 4 whole legs

1 large or 2 medium onions, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 large red bell peppers or Sheppard peppers, sliced into slim strips

2 Tbs. sweet paprika

a splash of white wine, water is fine

2 tomatoes, chopped (you can use canned tomatoes or even tomato passata)

1 bay leaf

2 heaping Tbs. sour cream

salt and pepper

METHOD:

1.  First, season the chicken, then brown the chicken on medium heat on all sides making sure it acquires a dark golden colour all over. If you left the skin on as I did, make sure it’s crisped up. Remove from pan and set aside.

2.      Using the same pan and oil from the chicken, add the onions followed by the garlic. Cook until tender and golden. To this you add the peppers. Continue cooking for a few minutes until the peppers begin to soften. Stir in the paprika and let cook for a couple of minutes longer. You will have noticed that there are plenty of sticky bits on the bottom of the pan so now is the time to release all that deliciousness by adding a splash of white wine. If you don’t have some handy, just add a splash of water.

3.   Add the chicken pieces back in followed by salt and pepper, a bay leaf and the chopped tomatoes, the acid in them will also help with the deglazing. Cover and let cook on medium low for about 15-20 minutes, depending on the size of your chicken pieces.

4.  Take the chicken back out again and set aside. Continue cooking the sauce uncovered for about 10 minutes. This will give the sauce an opportunity to reduce, intensifying the flavour because that’s exactly what you want.

5.      Now, that the sauce is a dark and intense red, take off the heat and stir in your sour cream. This will give the sauce a deep orange colour. At this point, make sure you check to see that the chicken is fully cooked through. Add the chicken back into the sauce, making sure it’s fully smothered in that rich sauce. Serve with white rice or spaetzle (for a simple homemade spaetzle recipe click: http://tattyapron.blogspot.ca/2014/02/spatzle.htm)

grape leaves

  SUCCULENT PORK STUFFED

GRAPE LEAVES

I love you cabbage, but Spring is (supposed to be) coming -- if you live in Canada, you know what I am talking about. I’m Eastern European and for me any quintessential Winter dish will likely involve sauerkraut or pork, or both, like the beloved cabbage rolls. But enough of that, I want green! I want something that reminds me that warmer days are around the corner damn it!

Cue grape leaves. What could be more evocative of sunny, warm climes right? I know that most likely you've already tried the Middle Eastern or Greek version but I assure you, you have not had it like this. These are served hot, contain pork (we might give up sauerkraut temporarily but no way we are forgoing pork), and are so beautifully succulent.

Now, if you've never eaten grape leaves, you are missing out. They have a wonderful slightly sour flavour, good texture, and absorb the flavour of whatever it is you are cooking them with without losing their distinct qualities. You can buy them in many speciality stores ready preserved in great big jars, so why not try them?

SUCCULENT PORK STUFFED GRAPE LEAVES

INGREDIENTS:

Serving – makes about 25 rolls

preserved grape leaves, 40 (enough to line/cover pan and in case some rip while rolling)

500 g minced pork (go lean if you must, just remember this: the more fat, the more succulent the result, just sayin’)

1 Tbs. oil

½ large onion finely chopped

pinch of salt

2 Tbs. rice

2 ½ Tbs. tomato paste

boiling water (enough to cover)

1 small egg

a few sprigs of fresh thyme (you can use dry)

1 tsp. sweet paprika

salt and pepper

2 cups water

thyme/bay leaves (optional)

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 325 F

2. First, you need to unfurl the rolled up jarred grape leaves and soak them in a large bowl of water while you prepare the meat filling. Remember to drain just before rolling.

3. In a skillet, sweat the onions in the oil until translucent, stir in the rice and continue to cook for another minute. Stir in 1 Tbs. of the tomato paste then add enough boiled water to barely cover the rice and onions. Let simmer for a few minutes until the rice is ¾ of the way cooked and the water is absorbed. Set aside to cool slightly.

4. Place the minced pork in a large bowl, add 1 small egg, thyme, paprika, salt and pepper. Give it a stir then add the onion and rice mixture. Mix well with your hands until everything is fully and evenly incorporated.

5. Before you begin rolling the grape leaves, make sure you cut the stem off from each leaf as it is hard and not very pliable.

6. To roll, flatten out the leaf on a clean board, veiny underside up. Take about a tablespoon’s worth of the mince mixture in your hand a shape it into a short elongated sausage. Place it centre on the bottom part of the leaf. Fold the sides over and roll up away from you, tuck in at the sides again, then continue rolling all the way to the top, delicately.

7. Cover the bottom of a pan (you can use a cast iron pan, a clay pan, or any oven-safe pan so long as it’s at least 2 inches deep) with grape leaves. This will protect your delicate parcels from burning and simply makes them that much more succulent. Arrange each parcel on the pan. Depending on the size or depth of your pan, you can layer them on top of each other or you can simply make one layer like I did. Now you’ll need to add some moisture to your pan by dissolving 1 ½ Tbs. of tomato paste in about 2 cups of water, stirring it with a spoon. Pour the liquid over the nicely arranged rolls until at least half way up. For extra aromatic appeal, you can place a few sprigs of thyme and/or bay leaves on top of your rolls. Lastly, cover the pan with a layer of grape leaves to ensure your little parcels are nice and protected while they cook.

8. Place the pan in the oven and let cook gently for about 2 hours.

You can eat them on their own with some fresh bread and sour cream or do as I did and serve them on a bed of polenta, topped off with a dollop of prepared sour cream – sour cream, a squeeze of lemon, and salt.

parsley root

PAN-FRIED YELLOW PERCH FILLETS 

WITH PARSLEY ROOT PURÉE 

AND SAUTÉED VEGETABLES

We are all familiar with parsley, but less so with parsley root. Though used widely in Central and Eastern Europe, it is far less common in North America. Thankfully, I have little trouble finding it in Toronto, phew. 

I took for granted that this type of root vegetable is grown primarily for its root and not its leaves like conventional parsley is. I can recall a time when I was living in Auckland and I was really missing using parsley root in my cooking so my dear and well-meaning father in-law dug up his own garden parsley, roots and all, and brought over a bag-full of tangled spindly roots for me to cook up. I took one look at them and thought How the hell am I going to cook with these?  But given my obstinate temperament and sheer determination to make something out of nothing, I began to somehow peel them. Unsurprisingly, it was nearly impossible. I came out thinking that they just don’t have proper parsley over there. I was wrong, they just don’t have this variety of parsley root. 

At first glance, parsley root (or the Hamburg root parsley) looks like parsnip but it tastes quite different from it. It has a nuttier sweeter flavour and can be used in a variety of ways. I use it in stocks quite often, but you can also make parsley root chips, grate it raw into a salad, or purée it like I did in this post. I find the delicate taste and creamy texture of parsley root goes very well with white fish so in this post I am pairing parsley root with wild yellow perch fillets. This makes for a delicate and elegant flavour combination you will surely love.

PAN-FRIED YELLOW PERCH FILLETS WITH PARSLEY ROOT PURÉE AND SAUTÉED VEGETABLES

INGREDIENTS:

Makes 4 portions

2 large parsley roots or 4 small ones, peeled and cubed

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cubed

Milk, enough to cover 

8 perch fillets

1 ½ Tbs butter

1 ½ Tbs sunflower oil

1 Tbs olive oil

1 yellow bell pepper, cut into thin long strips

1 zucchini, sliced into ribbons with vegetable peeler

Salt and pepper

METHOD:

1. Place the cubed parsley root and potatoes into a medium pot and cover with enough milk to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cover. Let simmer until liquid is reduced and parsley root and potatoes are soft and tender. Season with salt, then purée in a blender until smooth and silky.
2. In a pan, heat up olive oil on medium, add the capsicum and sauté for 30 seconds then add the zucchini ribbons and continue to sauté for another minute. Season with salt and pepper, then take off the heat.
3. Run the perch fillets under cold water then pat dry with paper towel. Season skin with salt and pepper so that the skin will be nice and crispy. In a large pan, heat up the sunflower oil on medium high then add the butter. As soon as it begins to bubble, place your perch fillets skin side down into the pan. The instant you've placed your fillets on the pan, weigh them down with another smaller pan so they don’t curl up. I used my cast iron trivet. Fry for 1 minute, check that skin is crispy. Turn and cook for another 45 seconds. If your fillets are bigger cook longer on each side.
4. Make a round flat pillow with your parsley root pure, set the sautéed vegetables on top of purée, then top with the beautiful and delicate perch fillets. Make sure you pour that lovely buttery sauce over your fillets, yum.

eggplant

RUSTIC GALETTE 

WITH EGGPLANT 

When I talk about the ‘Southern Trio’ I am referring to the holy trinity of eggplant, zucchini, and tomato. Think Provence or Sicily and how prominently this combination figures into their regional cuisine. In this dish however, the eggplant is definitely the star.

I guarantee that this rustic savoury galette is so delicious and charming, you’d think you were transported to the sunny Mediterranean. The unctuous savouriness of the eggplant combined with the mellow crunch of the zucchini, and the juicy freshness of the tomatoes alongside the flaky buttery pastry makes for a truly heavenly dish.

RUSTIC SOUTHERN TRIO GALETTE

SHORTCRUST PASTRY: for a simple fail-proof shortcrust pastry recipe go to http://tattyapron.blogspot.ca/2013/05/stinging-nettle-quiche.html 

If making only enough pastry for one galette, simply halve the measurements.

 

INGREDIENTS FOR FILLING:

3 Tbs olive oil

½ onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, finely diced

½ large eggplant, diced into small cubes

1 medium zucchini, diced into small cubes

100 ml tomato passata

1 whole tomato, sliced into 1 cm slices

grated Gruyère, or any good quality cheese which melts nicely

salt and pepper

1 egg yolk, whisked

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven to 400 F
2. In a pan, heat up the olive oil on medium heat, then sauté the eggplant until it begins to become translucent and is just beginning to soften. 
3. To this, you add your onions, followed by the garlic. Let them cook gently together until they are soft and brown, but not burnt. 
4. Stir in the tomato passata and let simmer on low heat for about 15- 20 minutes adding a bit of water if you find that the mixture is drying out. 
5. Towards the end stir in your finely chopped zucchini, season well with salt and pepper, let mingle for a minute then take off the heat. Set aside to cool.
6. If you kept the pastry in the freezer make sure you have defrosted it overnight in the refrigerator. Roll out your short crust pastry onto a clean and lightly flowered surface into a relatively thin round shape. You can be meticulous and trim the edges to form a perfectly round disc but this is a rustic dish and I personally like the rough uneven edges, c’est très charmant.
7. Transport the pastry to a large backing tray lined with parchment paper. Using a fork, prick around the base of the pastry. Take your filling and spoon it onto the middle of your pastry, leaving about 3 inches off the edges free. Cover with a shaving of Grueyere cheese and top with the tomato slices. Add a drizzle of olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
8. Now, fold up the uncovered border over the edge of your filling into pleats then brush the egg yolk onto the crust. This will give it an irresistible sheen and will help seal the pleats.
9. Place in a 400 F oven for about 25-30 minutes or until the pastry is golden brown.
10. Let cool for a few minutes, sprinkle with chopped parsley or basil.

celeriac

CREAMY CELERIAC SOUP

You've seen it, that big round knobbly root sitting almost brazenly alongside the parsnips and carrots on the supermarket shelf. It sits there completely unaware of its less than desirable appearance. With a quiet self-assurance it awaits for someone who is already privy to its hidden charms to lob it eagerly into their basket.

If you've never used celeriac in your cooking, I strongly advise you to go out and get one at once! You will be wooed by its delicate aromatic scent and its sweet flavour. Most often I use it as part of any soup or stock that I make, however, it is brilliant roasted or grated raw in coleslaw. However, seeing as we are smack-dab in the middle of winter, I thought I would make a simple creamy celeriac soup to warm up my bones.

INGREDIENTS:

1 Tbs. olive oil

1 celeriac root, peeled and chopped into cubes

2 medium waxy potatoes, peeled and chopped into cubes (slightly larger than the celeriac cubes)

1 leek, sliced

1 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

3 cups of light stock like vegetable or chicken stock

salt and pepper

2 Tbs. cream

METHOD:

1. In a medium pot, sauté leek, onion and garlic until soft and translucent 
2. Add the celeriac, sauté for a minute, then add the potatoes and sauté for another 2 minutes. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon to ensure the leeks and onions don’t burn and the ingredients are evenly distributed. 
3. Pour in the stock – I used my home-made rabbit stock this time but you can use any light stock here – bring to a boil  then reduce heat, cover and simmer for 30-45 minutes or until vegetables are soft.
4. Season with salt and pepper
5. Purée the soup with a hand blender or food processor 
6. Pour in the cream and give it a nice stir until fully incorporated
7. Top with home-made croutons or celeriac chips, and a sprinkle of parsley

popovers

BACON AND CHIVE 

POPOVERS

On many weekend mornings I love to potter around the house, taking my sweet time just because I can, but also because I want to savour those languid hours, popping in and out of bed while something warm is baking in the oven. The smells wafting throughout the home hold the promise of a day sauntering onward at its own pace. And on quite a few of those mornings, that distinction belongs to my bacon and chive popovers. They are so light and airy but incredibly flavourful at the same time.  How can that be? you may ask. Let me show you!

BACON AND CHIVE POPOVERS

INGREDIENTS:

250 ml (1 cup) milk

3 eggs

2 Tbsp butter, melted (plus butter for coating muffin tins)

1/2 tsp salt

250 ml (1 cup) all-purpose flour

1 tsp olive oil

1/4 cup of bacon, diced

1/3 of medium onion or whole shallot, diced

Parsley, chopped

Fresh red chilli, chopped (optional)

Bunch of chives, chopped

METHOD:

1. Preheat oven at 220C/425F
2. Coat muffin tins with butter (you can use any size muffin tins) and place in oven to heat
3. Meanwhile, fry the bacon and onion in the olive oil until browned, set aside to cool down
4. In a food processor, combine milk, eggs, melted butter, flour, and salt. Blend for 10 seconds, scrape down the sides then blend some more, around half a minute
5. Fold in bacon and onions into the batter, and then add the chopped chives, chilli, and parsley
6. Pour batter into buttered muffin tins and bake for 23-30 min. or until they are golden brown and have literally popped over
7. Place on a cooling rack

Enjoy warm with some good butter.

spätzle

TRADITIONAL GERMAN 

EGG NOODLES OR SPÄTZLE

I love noodles, all types of noodles; from Japanese ramen to Italian pasta, from Valencian fideuà to Asian rice vermicelli. But there is a lesser known noodle among this international band of brothers, and it’s one of my favourites, the German spätzle. In fact the word noodle comes from the German word nudel! I like it as an accompaniment to schnitzel, served with a meat stew or topped off with a rich mushroom sauce. However, you can always have it on its own as well … maybe with some cheese melted in, mmmm. More than any noodle that I know of, spätzle is best made fresh but not to worry it’s simple and rib-sticking good.

SPÄTZLE

INGREDIENTS:

Makes 2 large servings

Batter:

1 heaping cup of all-purpose flour

½ tsp. salt

pinch of nutmeg (optional)

1 egg

½ cup of cool water

Crumb mix:

1.5 tbsp. butter plus a couple of knobs to finish off (be generous)

4 tbsp. breadcrumbs

salt and pepper

METHOD:

1. In a bowl, combine flour, salt and nutmeg, break in one egg and give it a stir to incorporate the egg into the dry ingredients. Add the water in gradually while stirring continuously with a wooden spoon until the batter becomes quite smooth and elastic. This should take about 10 minutes and it’s supposed to give your arm a good workout. Set aside in cool place.
2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
3. In a pan, melt the butter. Add in the breadcrumbs and fry on medium heat until they turn brown and nutty. Season well with salt and pepper. Set aside.
4. I use my spätzle press to form the spätzle but you can also use a large-holed colander or slotted spoon. Over the simmering water, push the dough through the holes with a spatula or spoon. This is best done in batches so that you don’t overcrowd the pot. Once the little worm-like noodles float to the top they’re done. Spoon them out with a sieve or slotted spoon and place onto a dish dotted with a few knobs of butter. Give the spätzle a gentle toss making sure they are coated in the butter, this will ensure that they don’t dry out but remain luscious and delicious.
5. Once your batches of spätzle are done and coated in the butter, sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top and gently fold into the spätzle.
6. Wash down with a bottle of good beer and toast to the god of Nudel, ja!